Ganso means originator, but to ramen geeks it means da sh**! And Ganso Nagahamaya is just that. After being raised mostly on Tokyo-style shoyu ramen, I really underestimated the goodness of Hakata/Nagahama-style tonkotsu. I was pleasantly surprised how smooth and light the pure pork-bone soup actually tasted. It was awe-inspiring. Even the massive amounts of msg had no ill-effects. Perhaps it was the balancing effects of the shōga (ginger). There's also some tare on the table to enhance the soup even more, but use it sparingly. Ramen is 400 yen and kaedama is another 100. That's like a total of $5. It was definitely one of the cheapest bowls I encountered on my trip. If you're in the area, don't miss it!
From Hakata Station take the Kūkō Line to Akasaka Station and it's about a 10-minute walk from there. Head North for 3 blocks, make a left and walk around the slight bend. You'll eventually see it on your right. Stand in line and order from the ticket machine. Try not to waste too much time at the machine cuz the line moves fast. Stand at the door and wait to be called. After sitting down, give the server your ticket and wait patiently. If you ordered kaedama, give the server that ticket AFTER you finish the first batch of noodles. Yell out the firmness to get their attention. For example: "katamen!!"
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